If you have been following my blog this Summer, you may have noticed my penchant for linen and the ‘Lagenlook’ style of clothing.
Linen is not only comfortable to wear and brilliant for keeping you cool on those long, hot Summer days, (not that we had many of those in England this year) but it also gets better with washing – softer and more drapey.
The pattern I wanted to try was V8813 by Marcy Tilton for Vogue which called for a lightweight linen or jersey. Obviously I chose a linen, and went for a stunning Pillar Box Red 100% linen from Minerva Crafts. It has a subtle sheen to it which is quite unlike the linens I have bought before.
This is what arrived in the post: –
As we’re heading into Autumn, short sleeves were not an option so I opted for view B with three-quarter length sleeves.
Although not immediately obvious on the pattern envelope, the oversized pockets have a pleat in them which is held in place by a button. As the fabric is plain, I decided to make a statement with these swirly patterned buttons which are very striking and quite unusual; they look like they’re hand painted.
The dress came together very easily but, although I washed the fabric before starting to sew, it is still stiffer than I’d like. A few more washes will soften the linen more and more though, and those pockets will drape better eventually – they just look a little too structured at the moment.
After the main body of the dress has been constructed, the centre front panel is inserted and then the gathered detail is added.
Having read several other blogs featuring this pattern, it seems some people are finding that it is less fiddly to complete the gathers prior to inserting the front panel. However, I am used to using Vogue patterns and decided to follow their instructions which worked for me.
The pattern includes a great way to get really even gathers so I thought I’d show it in more detail as it’s a technique that would transfer to many other projects.
You cut lengths of cord twice as long as the guide lines – I used a baker’s twine but any thin cord will do.
Pin the cord in place along the guidelines.
Set your stitch width to a wide zig zag.
Choose a medium stitch length.
Zig zag over the cord being careful not to catch the cord in the stitching. I found that it just stayed in the groove of the sewing machine foot which made it easy.
When all the cord has been enclosed, secure one end of each of the cords by wrapping it around a pin in a figure of eight motion.
Then simply pull the other end of the cord to create even gathers across the entire length.
Secure with another pin at the other end and steam the gathers so they stay in place.
Finally, top stitch from the right side in two rows either side of the previous zig zag stitching.
This is my favourite way to create gathers which are nice and even – it might take a little longer than the usual method of just pulling up the bobbin thread, but it’s much more professional looking and well worth perfecting the technique.
I amended the design by adding a row of top stitching to the shoulder seams as it’s always a nice finishing touch.
I prefer to leave the sleeve hems and bottom hem to the very end so deviated from the instructions at this point.
The very last thing to do was to sew those wonderful buttons in place!
Can you see the slight sheen? It’s almost like silk.
It is SUCH a comfortable dress to wear and will drape more softly after a few more washes. I can see myself teaming it with a pair of tights and boots for the colder weather.
If you are tempted to try this pattern, there’s never been a better time as it is half price at the moment!
Here’s the link: – V8813 Marcy Tilton
September 23, 2015 at 7:41 am
Another stunning dress for you – it is a very attractive style and colour! The buttons are a touch of class as is all your top stitching. I used to sew all my clothes [haven’t for decades now] but my skill was never quite this high!
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September 23, 2015 at 9:42 am
Thanks Pauline, it was a simple pattern so I think it needed the extra touches to perk it up a bit. I had a break from dressmaking for about fifteen years when I went back to work full time – only when I started again did I realise how much I missed it:)
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September 23, 2015 at 7:50 am
Well done! I really like the way the neckline falls and the centre panel.
To soften fabric Peggy Sagers swears by washing a couple of times in Coke, just a can or two in the machine, no soap. I can’t vouch for that but it wouldn’t harm to try.
Great colour for you btw.
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September 23, 2015 at 9:38 am
Coke, eh? I’ve never heard that one before, I must admit, but I’ll try it if ordinary washing doesn’t do the trick – thanks for the tip!
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September 23, 2015 at 8:53 am
Comfort with sophisticated style and a lovely colour too!! Love those buttons, they are the perfect finishing touch 🙂
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September 23, 2015 at 9:43 am
The buttons are fabulous, aren’t they? Red cheers me up on a dull Winter’s day so I suspect this dress will worn a lot:)
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September 23, 2015 at 9:10 am
Oh, beautiful dress! I love the colour you chose and I love linen too!!! It is one of my favourite fabrics!You published this post in the right time!!! As always, your gorgeous creations make me wish to sew and there’s already a while that I’d like to sew myself a skirt. A lovely friend of mine made me the pattern for a simple skirt so today I’ll try myself…. fingers crossed!!!
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September 23, 2015 at 9:45 am
Ooh, good luck with the skirt! How nice of your friend to make a pattern especially for you. You’ll need a sewing bag to go with your knitting bag next…..
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September 23, 2015 at 9:48 am
❤ ❤ ❤ ❤ ❤
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September 23, 2015 at 9:11 am
It is goregous, I really would love to make a ‘slouchy’ linen dress but my tent like attempt is still sitting untouched! I need to get it out and try to do something with it!! x
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September 23, 2015 at 9:46 am
You must – slouchy dresses don’t have to be like tents. Add a few details over and above what the pattern calls for and they could make all the difference:)
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September 23, 2015 at 2:07 pm
Lovely dress, think it will look great with thick tights and boots in the autumn.
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September 24, 2015 at 7:46 am
Thanks, I thinks boots and tights are a good way to keep wearing it in the colder months. Maybe a thermal vest too!
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September 23, 2015 at 2:27 pm
Thanks for the top tip about the gathering, your dress looks stunning, and those buttons !!! my oh my 🙂
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September 24, 2015 at 7:48 am
It’s such a useful technique. I fell in love with those buttons and they make all the difference. Buttons have the ability to do that, don’t they?
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September 24, 2015 at 12:23 pm
You know how I love buttons 🙂 they can really bring an item to the fore
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September 23, 2015 at 2:35 pm
Girlfriend you rock. That is one stunning dress. I can see me now rubbing off half of my skin on my face trying to just turn the buttons to the right one. LOL I so love your style. Your dresses and shirts look so comfy. I just have to dive in and try.
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September 24, 2015 at 7:49 am
Ha ha! You make me laugh! Glad you’ve got a smile back on your face too:)
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September 23, 2015 at 3:26 pm
Gorgeous fabric and dress. Very you!
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September 23, 2015 at 8:16 pm
This dress is a lovely style on you and I love that red!
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September 24, 2015 at 7:56 am
Thanks – I do love a nice, bright red to cheer me up on a dull day!
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September 23, 2015 at 8:38 pm
Oh, fab! And loving that colour on you, you’ll have to post a full picture of it action. Very clever shocking technique 🙂
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September 24, 2015 at 7:58 am
Hmm, sorry about the lack of pictures of me wearing it. I couldn’t balance the camera and gave up in the end! At least I now have a dressform to fall back on:)
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September 23, 2015 at 9:55 pm
Stunning! You look fab in red and have really found your style with the drapey linen. I’d never even heard there was a proper style for this kind of look until I read yours & Del’s blog. 😃
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September 24, 2015 at 12:03 am
Glad you gave it a go, Sheila. Looks very you!
Awaiting real Autumnal weather for my sleeved version.
Thank you, Ali, for remembering my post! 😘 If anyone’s interested, (https://curlsnskirls.wordpress.com/2015/08/13/v8813-other-versions-fabrics/) , it includes a link to Marcy Tilton’s video about those teensy centre pleats.
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September 24, 2015 at 7:44 am
It’s a great dress and very easy too – those pleats were fun to do:)
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September 24, 2015 at 7:42 am
Thanks Ali, although I usually reserve loose fitting styles for the Summer to keep cool and comfortable. Back to more fitted layers for warmth soon:)
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September 24, 2015 at 4:08 pm
Well, I love everything about this dress! The swirly buttons certainly do make a statement, don’t they. And the linen is perfect, nice and crisp……..great for this drapey pattern!
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September 24, 2015 at 4:49 pm
Thank you very much, it’s going to be my favourite lounging-about dress I think:)
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September 27, 2015 at 8:48 pm
The way you gathered the fabric is brilliant! It looks so pro! The dress came out beautifully. Love linen. Which reminds me, I want to make a simple pair of linen pants to wear in the yard. You do lovely work! Well done! Happy Fall, Koko❀
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September 28, 2015 at 9:38 am
Thanks Koko, linen is my favourite – such a beautiful, natural fabric. Hope you find time to make your pants soon:)
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September 28, 2015 at 4:28 pm
I hope so too. I was thinking it would be good to wear out in the garden to keep the bugs off. 🙂
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September 27, 2015 at 10:34 pm
Absolutely love it, I wish I could sew. I promise myself that if I ever get the opportunity to reduce my hours at work I will try sewing.
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September 28, 2015 at 9:42 am
Thank you! Why not see if there’s a weekend or evening class nearby? It’s very therapeutic, making things, and a great stress reliever especially if you work full time.
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February 24, 2016 at 8:30 pm
It’s really lovely. I’ve sewn this pattern three times now, and have always been happy with the finished dress and worn it heaps. You’ve inspired me to make a solid coloured one!
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