Happy New Year to you all!
Did you have a good Christmas? If it was anything like mine, it will have been crazy busy but fun both at the same time.
As usual I was more than a little optimistic about what I could do in the run up to the festivities and, on top of all the handmade gifts I had planned, I decided it would be a good idea to make a ball gown for Mr H-L’s annual ‘do’ on 18th December.
Time ran away from me (as it has the annoyingly reliable habit of doing every year) and, before I knew it, there were just TWO days left in which to conjure up this dress or – horror of horrors – wear one that I’d worn previously!
Sleeves rolled up, I got stuck in and laid everything out on the dining table rather than in my sewing room – this close to Christmas I didn’t fancy being locked away from the world for 48 hours.
Minerva Crafts supplied all the materials required, including the most gorgeous shot taffeta in a fabulous shade of turquoise which shimmered beautifully in the light and rustled noisily as I sashayed around in it!
Luckily, the Belville Sasoon for Vogue pattern (V2931) had provision for shortening the torso as well as the hemline. At only 5’2″ I am short in the body and was able to adjust the pattern pieces by 2″ accordingly.
As the skirt featured a fish tail, it had to be shortened at thigh length too, in order to keep the flare falling from the right height – I reduced this by 4″ which meant no further reduction at the hemline was necessary.
Once the adjustments were applied to all the relevant pattern pieces, I started the somewhat mammoth task of cutting out.
There were 78 separate pieces to cut out.
It took THREE HOURS!!!
At first glance, the dress may appear to have quite a simple silhouette to it but don’t be fooled – there is plenty of construction hidden within the innocent looking exterior and I was in my element!
Time seemed to stand still as I immersed myself totally in the heaven that is sewing a dress like this.
The bow is a separate entity and is different to any I have made previously (and there have been many!), stiffened with dress net and shaped with hand stitching.
Formed bra cups are essential in this type of dress as it is not possible to wear a bra and, together with the boning, felt secure enough on my (not insubstantial) bust to dance the night away without a second thought.
My recently purchased invisible zipper foot proved a good buy, even if I have managed forty years without one – anything that makes life easier is always a good investment.
The invisible zip went in a treat.
By midnight on Day One, the shell was finished.
I don’t normally like to use flash, but at midnight there is no other option. The benefit was that it shows how the fabric shimmers in the light – it really is stunning!
The anti-static lining was constructed in pretty much the same way as the dress, minus the bow detail and neck strap.
The two are then pinned wrong sides together and basted in place.
Onto the foundation which consists of a boned layer and a lining. I used cotton covered polyester boning.
Checking the fit is critical as this stage as it is so closely contoured to the body.
Once satisfied that the fit was exact, I attached the hook and eye tape to the back opening edges of the foundation corset.
The foundation was sewn, right sides together, to the dress and understitched where possible around the top edge.
French tacks were made to loosely connect the foundation to the lining – such a useful technique that I use a lot in linings.
Just the lining to sew by hand to the zipper tape….
…..TADAH!
Four poppers secure the halterneck strap and a hook and eye finishes the dress above the zipper.
I was in rather a rush as we had to leave in an hour, so narrow-hemmed the bottom quickly on the machine. Ideally, I would like to have had the time to sew it properly by hand.
In reality, no one noticed:)
I wore the designer shoes that I bought for our wedding.
After a three hour drive to the hotel, I could finally relax and get ready for the party. Here’s the dress laid out on our bed whilst I took a dip in the jacuzzi with a G&T!
Unfortunately, if you trust your husband to take a decent photograph of you wearing it – this is the best you’re likely to end up with!!!!
As you can see, it fits like a second skin – thank goodness for all that scaffolding within!!
January 6, 2016 at 7:09 am
Well done you! You look fabulous as always.
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January 6, 2016 at 1:27 pm
Thanks Claire:)
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January 6, 2016 at 7:32 am
Fabulous. You looked stunning. Hope you had a good night. Happy New Year K xXx
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January 6, 2016 at 1:27 pm
It was brilliant, thanks, the highlight of our year!
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January 6, 2016 at 7:35 am
You make it look so easy!!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:29 pm
Well, once you can sew, it’s ALL easy really – it just takes more time to make:)
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January 6, 2016 at 7:52 am
Well done! So ambitious and you pulled it off beautifully. I agree with Zeens and Roger: you do make it look so easy! But 78 pieces?! Crazy! Looks fantastic! 😀👍
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January 6, 2016 at 1:30 pm
Thank you – yes, 78 pieces to cut out and cutting out is the worst bit!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:36 pm
Oh I agree. Cutting the pieces is my least favorite part. Though I do get happy when I figure out a way to fit pieces on less fabric to reduce wasted materials! ☺
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January 6, 2016 at 1:57 pm
Oh, me too! I’m a miser about fabric wastage!
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January 6, 2016 at 8:04 am
Wow, that is totally amazing. 🙂 I don’t sew at all, except very small pieces in straight lines, like cushions, etc. I would never dream of attempting 78 pieces! You totally rock!
You looks absolutely stunning in your dress, and it fitted like a glove. Wow again!!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:30 pm
Thank you, although it probably seems more impressive to a non-sewer than it actually is, lol:)
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January 6, 2016 at 8:09 am
78 pieces! I’d still be cutting out 🙂 It looks lovely on and I bet you wowed them all!!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:32 pm
I know, cutting out is the worst bit, too! We were the only ones not wearing black (my husband wore a white tuxedo) so we did stand out a bit!
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January 6, 2016 at 8:48 am
Only Wonder Woman could rustle up a dress like that in a matter of hours!! 😉 Stunning!.. and, my favourite yet of all your creations!!! 🙂
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January 6, 2016 at 1:34 pm
Aw, that’s so kind of you! I was determined to get it done because I didn’t want to be seen in a dress I’d worn before – a woman thing, which my husband doesn’t get:)
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January 6, 2016 at 8:48 am
Wow! You look stunning. The colour and dress pattern are gorgeous and I am in awe that you made this in 2 days, especially leading up to Christmas. It takes me two days to make simple skirts!!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:35 pm
Thanks so much Nikki, I must have been mad leaving it so late to make, but I had SO many other things which took priority that I really couldn’t fit it in before:)
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January 6, 2016 at 8:55 am
Whit woo sexy lady!! I bet you felt as amazing in it as you looked! Love seeing how you’ve put it all together in the different layers. Mr H.L. needs to take this photography malarkey a bit more serious though! I envisaged you coming down a big sweeping staircase with a G&T in hand! Oh well, he’ll just have to take you to another posh do soon so you can where it again! Love your wedding shoes too! 😀
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January 6, 2016 at 1:39 pm
I know, it’s not the best photo ever, is it? I was a little disappointed, particularly as there WAS a huge, turning staircase down which we swept!! Keeping those boobs under control is always a struggle but all that boning meant I never once felt like they were about to make a surprise exit from the dress:)
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January 6, 2016 at 2:18 pm
Photo’s still lovely, but I don’t think the menfolk realise how we like to drool over each other’s makes, and it’s hard to get photos too when others are around. Stunning nonetheless! 😃
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January 6, 2016 at 8:59 am
Wow! What an ambitious make! And you made it a huge success- it looks gorgeous on you! 😊
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January 6, 2016 at 1:41 pm
Thank you so much, I was pleased with the way it turned out, particularly as it I would normally have the luxury of a little more time in which to make it. Who am I kidding? It’s the same every year and I ALWAYS leave it to the last minute!!
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January 6, 2016 at 9:03 am
You look beautiful and your skills are awesome!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:42 pm
Aw, thanks, you’ll have me blushing in a minute:)
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January 6, 2016 at 9:15 am
That colour really suits you – and the dress looks amazing! I hope you had a great time.
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January 6, 2016 at 1:44 pm
Thanks, I think bright colours work best on me because of my dark hair and fairish skin….and the fact that I would hate to blend in to the sea of ‘little black dresses’!!
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January 6, 2016 at 2:17 pm
I agree wholeheartedly, I love colour it makes me happy!
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January 6, 2016 at 9:54 am
Goodness, I’m in complete awe! 2 days???!!!! And you took construction photos!!
You look amazing. I’m sure Mr Sewchet was very proud to have you on his arm.
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January 6, 2016 at 1:49 pm
Well, I only really need to glance at the instructions for the unique details, otherwise all dresses are constructed in pretty much the same way so you can fly through it. I did only finish an hour before we had to leave, though, so it was a bit hairy then. I had visions of hand sewing the hem all the way up in the car:)
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January 6, 2016 at 9:55 am
I need a lie down after just reading about the construction of this amazing dress! Wow! You look fabulous.
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January 6, 2016 at 1:51 pm
Thank you:) It’s not that complicated really, just time consuming with so many pieces and layers, but it did make me feel fabulous, I have to say:)
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January 6, 2016 at 11:11 am
Goodness! You did that in 2 days? I’m SO impressed! It’s gorgeous and gorgeous on you! I’m a closet Regency Romance novel reader with settings in England in the 1800’s. They always talk about the gowns and ladies trips to the modist. I’m certain you were channeling those fabulous craftsmen from those days. You did an incredible job. Good on you!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:53 pm
Oh, how I’d love to sashay around in those period costumes for a few days! So elegant and dreamy looking, and I might actually have a waist if I had the corset pulled tightly enough! Thanks so much for your kind comments:)
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January 6, 2016 at 11:12 am
Wow, some task for two days but you did an amazing job and look gorgeous!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:54 pm
Yes, it was a bit ridiculous leaving it until the last minute, but it’s the same every year as the ‘do’ is always on the Friday before Christmas and I always run out of time!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:39 pm
Amazing! What a gorgeous dress…I think you’re very brave making something with such a short deadline & using taffeta! It really does look lovely!
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January 6, 2016 at 1:56 pm
I think the word you’re looking for is ‘mad’! Seriously though, I often leave things to the last minute and seem to work well under pressure. Not sure my husband would agree with that statement….
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January 6, 2016 at 2:57 pm
Wow that is stunning! The fabric is so beautiful! And your dress was more special because you made it!
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January 6, 2016 at 3:12 pm
Thank you so much – anything homemade definitely feels more special, doesn’t it?
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January 6, 2016 at 4:28 pm
You look absolutely gorgeous! That dress is such a stunner. I would love to have a go at sinking my teeth into a project like this but I can’t think of any occasion to wear it. The school run perhaps? ☺
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January 6, 2016 at 5:02 pm
Ha ha, that would certainly turn heads – or get you locked up, one or the other! It’s the highlight of our year which is why I like to make a ‘proper’ dress. I have all these ball gowns and cocktail dresses that have only been worn once!
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January 6, 2016 at 11:20 pm
I can totally understand the need to make a dress especially for a big occasion!
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January 6, 2016 at 6:55 pm
Absolutely gorgeous!!!!
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January 8, 2016 at 11:15 am
Thank you, it was worth the effort:)
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January 6, 2016 at 7:22 pm
Absolutely beautiful dress! Amazing that you made it in just 2 days. I need a lie down in a dark room after just reading about it!
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January 8, 2016 at 11:16 am
Hee hee, it was a manic couple of days sewing, that’s for sure!
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January 7, 2016 at 12:39 am
Gorgeous, glamorous dress!
More photos, please!
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January 7, 2016 at 7:46 am
Beautiful,love the colour
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January 7, 2016 at 12:49 pm
In awe! You look stunning, and so does the dress 🙂 Lovely colour and blown away by what you achieved in so little time, gulp!
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January 8, 2016 at 11:21 am
Thank you, but don’t forget, you started sewing at forty whereas I’ve been sewing for forty years – it would be shameful if I couldn’t sew quicker! Nonetheless, it was still a manic couple of days, even for me:)
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January 7, 2016 at 3:12 pm
Oh WOW!! The dress is stunning!! I am shocked and you look gorgeous! The color is perfect. I love everything about it, The bow and fish tail especially. You rock girl friend. Happy New Year my friend. You deserve all the happiness and more. Please check you email about the box.
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January 8, 2016 at 11:23 am
Thanks Robin, I don’t get the chance to wear this type of dress very often, once a year in fact, and it’s always lovely to dress up, isn’t it? I love the fact that nobody else will have a dress like it – that’s the beauty of dressmaking:)
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January 7, 2016 at 10:12 pm
Glorious! The color is exquisite and it fits like a glove you are just glowing. SEVENTY EIGHT pattern pieces? Good heavens, I’m impressed. 🙂
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January 8, 2016 at 11:26 am
Thank you Jen, it was a crazy two days, especially in the week before Christmas! Most of this type of dress have a similarly vast number of pattern pieces – some I’ve made have had over 100!!
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January 8, 2016 at 1:36 am
The dress is stunning and you’re stunning in it. It’s quite the party dress and clearly you were the belle of the ball. I’m glad you shared the details of how it came together. I agree that cutting pieces is the most tedious part of sewing. When I worked in a costume shop in my early twenties we had cutting tables topped with cork. They were glorious. I’ve always dreamed of having my own sewing room with one of those tables. The last time I cut out a pattern, I did it in pieces on the kitchen counter. It’s a good height, but slippery. Still, at 5’10” it sure beats using the floor.
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January 8, 2016 at 11:30 am
Did you make costumes then? What a dream job! Why the cork though? I’m only 5’2″ but still find cutting out on the floor back breaking. The worktop in my sewing room is made to suit my height (or lack thereof!) but for full length dresses I use the dining table which is bigger as it seats up to fourteen.
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January 8, 2016 at 6:50 pm
I did, many moons ago. I have a degree in theatre arts with an emphasis in costuming. I worked in a handful of costume shops, but moved on to other things as it is very challenging to make a living. You were hired for a season, not a full year. Pay was low (non-profits) and no paid time off or healthcare.
I did love the work and the creative people I worked with.
The cutting table had cork so you could pin your pattern and fabric directly to the table like a cork board. It also prevented slippage, an added bonus. The tables were huge, enough for two people to work together if necessary, or to cut out what might be a large costume piece.
It’s nice that you have a large table to accommodate your dress.
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January 8, 2016 at 6:32 am
Beautiful! All that work was well worth it for such a lovely creation.
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January 8, 2016 at 11:31 am
Thank you, I certainly think it was worth the effort – it’s a shame I’ll only wear it once!!!
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January 8, 2016 at 1:15 pm
Yes, just like my daughter’s prom dress that we purchased! 😄
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January 10, 2016 at 7:51 am
You look so beautiful it bought tears to my eyes – – seriously. Stunning dress on a stunning lady. I also really loved your sentence ‘Time seemed to stand still as I immersed myself totally in the heaven that is sewing a dress like this.’ So good to hear you were able to enjoy the process when you had a such a short space of time. I’d have been panicking like crazy.
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January 10, 2016 at 10:48 am
Aw, thanks, you big softie! I’m definitely a process driven crafter, so it doesn’t matter that I’ll only wear it once (or maybe twice) – the pleasure is certainly in the making:)
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January 10, 2016 at 11:26 am
Wow, wow and wow! What an absolutely stunning dress on so many levels – the fabric, style and techniques leave me in absolute awe. Amazing 👏🏼
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January 10, 2016 at 12:48 pm
Thanks so much – have a go at something similar, you might surprise yourself:)
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January 12, 2016 at 1:53 pm
Finally got round to reading all of this! Wow you made it look so quick and easy! You did so well getting it done in time. I think I would have gone to the shop haha. Actually having said that and thinking about it – that’s possibly an even more stressful experience! I’d struggle to get a gorgeous dress to fit so well RTW! Hope you had an amazing time in it!
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January 13, 2016 at 2:55 pm
Thanks, we had a great night as usual, and it makes all the effort worthwhile, especially when you see two identical Monsoon dresses in the same room – how embarrassing!
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January 13, 2016 at 11:38 am
You look divine!!!
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January 13, 2016 at 2:56 pm
Thank you T! It was a great night and I felt very elegant in my little homemade creation:)
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